Banagher to Clonmacnoise, Athlone and the River Suck

Banagher's public marina has toilets, showers and a pump-out but no shore power, so do not count on mains power on the first evening. Upstream, the Grand Canal joins the river at Shannon Harbour, about 3 km away; entering the canal needs a canal permit, so keep to the Shannon today. The river then winds through open callows with few houses. Shannonbridge has moorings on both sides of its long stone bridge of 1757, including a floating jetty with twelve more berths that opened in April 2026, plus shore power and a pump-out. Luker's, in a building dating from 1757, Fallon's, dating from 1846, and JJ Killeen's are all close to the water.

Spend the morning at the Napoleonic fort on the Roscommon bank: it holds a free exhibition, and its café opens daily from Easter to October. The 5.2 km River Loop walk starts in the village if you want to stretch your legs. After lunch, Clonmacnoise is only about an hour upstream, and its round towers appear above the bend well before you reach the jetty, which is a few steps from the site. Inside the enclosure stand a cathedral, churches, high crosses and more than 700 early grave slabs, and the Nun's Church lies on its own about 300 m east. Check opening times first, as a visitor-centre redevelopment is under way. Expect a quiet night beside the ruins.

The river stays empty and wide until Athlone Lock, just below the town. The keeper works it in Shannon lock hours with lunch from 13:00 to 14:00 (+353 90 649 2026), and everyone handling lines must wear a lifejacket. If the river is high, approach with care: in a flood the water below the lock can rise almost to the level above. Moor above the weir at the council marina (about 60 berths behind a coded gate, €15 a night, paid on arrival) or at the free public jetty on the west bank. Sean's Bar is said to be Ireland's oldest pub, and the Left Bank quarter around the castle is full of places to eat.

Enjoy a slow morning in Athlone: the Luan Gallery on the riverbank shows contemporary art, and Viking Tours run trips up to Lough Ree from the castle quay. Athlone Castle has been closed for redevelopment since October 2025, so check before you plan a visit. Then go down through Athlone Lock, ideally before the lunch break, and drift back past Clonmacnoise to Shannonbridge, three and a half hours in all. A second evening here is no hardship: Fallon's has music sessions most weekends, and Luker's has its own live-music venue, The Boatyard. Pump out here if you need to; Ballinasloe has no pump-out.

Just below Shannonbridge the River Suck branches off to the west, a 16 km navigation through one lock. Traffic is light, but boat visits are growing. Pollboy Lock is worked by a keeper in the usual Shannon hours; if nobody is about, call +353 90 964 4938. Above it you pass Moycarn Lodge's private marina, whose terms for visiting boats are not published, and soon reach Ballinasloe's public marina in the middle of the town, next to a flood weir of 1885. Its service block has toilets, showers, a laundry and shore power. This is the best place on the whole trip to restock: supermarkets, pubs, restaurants and a cinema are all within walking distance.

The longest day, so leave in good time and plan to clear Pollboy Lock before the lunch break. Back on the Shannon, turn downstream past Shannonbridge and on through the callows to Banagher, about four hours in all. If you are here in October, the Ballinasloe Fair, held since 1722 and one of Europe's great horse fairs, may tempt you to stay longer. Back in Banagher, the 25 m open-water pool that floats in the river reopened in April 2026, and JJ Hough's on Main Street is the place for a last night of singing. Cromwell's Castle and a Martello tower guard the Galway bank, with Fort Eliza on the Offaly side.